First Come, First Served Camping in Mal País, Costa Rica
Puntarenas is a little past its prime, but it looks like it may be making a comeback. The beaches aren’t my top choice, but if you are going anywhere by sea, chances are you leave from this Pacific port city. For example, trips to Cocos on either the Aggressor or the Undersea Hunter leave from Puntarenas.
Once you have your ticket, you simply drive your car onto the ferry and find a great place to hang out. The view, breeze and sun is actually quite nice as you cross over to the peninsula – soak it in. You may want to pack a few munchies in your backpack if you are a picky eater since the options are limited on the ferry and when you land on the Nicoya Peninsula. Once on the other side, there was a little bit of a wait as all the cars disembark from the ferry; you just need to be patient.
Shower facilities at our campsite
The drive to Mal País adds another few hours to your journey, but take your time. There are several small towns on the way to your final destination that do offer great food and a unique experience. You will know you are getting closer to Mal País as the roads get a little more rough – pot holes get bigger, asphalt turns to dirt and the turns become a little more sharp. As you enter Mal País central, you will get to see what Mal País is all about – beach, food, surf. As we continued on our way, we made a side stop at the local supermarket to ‘order ice’. This is extremely important if you decide to camp – order your ice. Again, ‘first come, first served’ and if you aren’t ‘in line’ you may be out of luck and your beverages,meats, etc will quickly become warm and spoiled. As we continued the drive another few minutes, we found the camp site. For a whopping $15/day, we picked our camp site from what was available. Once again, getting there early is key as many sites are better than others. Ours, as it turned out, was great – close to the showers, but not too close to the bathrooms and a fantastic view of the ocean.
The three days we spent there were fantastic. We did make a day trip to Montezuma but managed to spend the bulk of the time relaxing – walking on the beach, playing cards, reading books, and snacking as we watched the surfers. While we didn’t venture ‘out on the town’ at night, there certainly is a nightlife in Mal País. Next time I am there, I will surely check it out.
There are a few things to remember when you go to Mal País:
- First Come, First Served. If it matters to you, leave early. That’s the best way to ensure you will get what you want/need.
- You are roughing it. Plan to carry what you need. Water, food, entertainment, equipment. While you can get some basic supplies in town, there are few luxuries waiting for you. A small propane grill is not a bad idea along side a very BIG cooler. Also, don’t be surprised if you see some degree of nudity. It is really not a big deal, but can be a little shock for some who aren’t expecting it.
- Relax. The culture and vibe is very ‘pura vida’. If things don’t exactly go to plan, don’t sweat it.
- Sunscreen lotion will be expensive – buy it before you leave from Puntarenas
If you are planning on taking a camera:
- Bring a lens in the 300mm range. The surfing action is pretty cool and you can get some really nice shots
- Bring your wide angle zoom. You will also see some great sunsets since you are right on the ocean. Maybe you can even capture the elusive green flash.
- Think about environmental seals or even a zip lock bag to protect from sand and elements when not using it.
Other camping considerations (from REI or Cabela’s):
- Comfortable sandals that dry quickly
- Dry-fit shirts & shorts offer protection from the elements as well as the sun
DEET – there are some no-see-ums on the beach so a little around your ankles at night goes a long way
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