The Best Cup of Coffee I Ever Had, Doka Estate, Costa Rica
If you have ever watched the Amazing Race, you may recognize some of the photos of the Doka Coffee Estate near Alajuela, Costa Rica. This 70 year old family estate, close to the Poas Volcano, rests on rich, fertile soil that is perfect for growing my favorite little plant.
The drive up to the plantation is about 30 – 45 minutes (all depends on traffic and the driver) from Alajuela central and is extremely picturesque. As you wind in and around the small towns and residential areas, you can’t help but wonder how many coffee plants are in this small little country. What is even more amazing is that one little plant grows one pound a coffee for a full year. Think about that. That one bag of coffee that you buy, ever so quickly at the grocery store is the equivalent of one year’s worth of effort for our little green friend.
The coffee plantation tour starts with the plant itself. The guide explains how they select and pick only the best cherries (fruit) and may offer you a sample of the ripe, red fruit to taste. It is sweet (which surprised me) and quite good, but its real power comes much later.
The tour progresses into the mill which is equally impressive. The old-school system of pools, belts, pulleys and fly wheels separates the ripe cherries from those that are not quite ready for processing. Further in, the beans are removed from the fruit and move into drying. The drying we saw took place on a large concrete slab in the mountain sun. Then, a worker with wooden rake, turned the beans in the sun and once dry, organized them in long lines for ‘pick up’. By simply scooping the dried, pale beans into a wheel barrel, the workers make quick work of getting them into the traditional burlap coffee bags for shipment.
What was really unique about the Doka Estate is that they roast small batches, and they say, the best beans on site. In the small roasting house, the workers and machines highlight the different roasts that provide the unique and subtle flavors that these beans can offer. In addition, visitors are welcome to buy their own personal cache since ‘these beans’ are not available in the super markets such as Mas por Menos (my favorite super in Alajuela).
Our tour ended with lunch and a coffee sample at the restaurant that over looks the mountain side. My first sip of coffee was like no other. I am sure a little can be attributed to the experience, but the subtle fruit undertones of the coffee were perfect. I distinctly remember the sweetness without wanting sugar – as I usually do. This coffee was so good, I drank it black.
Upon my return home, I did brew a few batches of the coffee I purchased in Costa Rica, but I never achieved the same level of perfection I consumed on that mountain. I expect that in order to relive it, I will need to go back.
If you decide to go to Doka, bring your camera and a light jacket.
Doka is a wonderful Costa Rican story that provides another historical perspective. The site is beautiful with panoramic views and beautifully groomed grounds. When I was there, a local family was having a birthday party for their young girl. We sipped our DIVINE coffee after a great tour, enjoyed the remarkable sights and shared the experience of a family celebration. Terrific Afternoon!